Ownership

TO BE OR NOT TO BE

.......A Basset Hound owner

By: Jane Baetz

CHAPTER 1

First and foremost realize owning A Basset Hound is a longtime commitment. The average Basset lives about 12 to 14 years. Never buy a dog of any kind with the
intentions of “well, if it doesn't fit we can always get rid of it.” Dogs are not like Bic lighters that you can toss out when you’re done with them. The humane societies and rescue organizations are filled with dogs from irresponsible, uncaring owners.

You might as well know the negatives of owning a Basset Hound up front. I don’t profess that a Basset is for everyone.

1) Basset’s shed, only once a year……..All year long

2) Bassets slop when they drink, and they get those long ears in everything. Don’t bother purchasing one of those cute bowls made especially for long eared dogs. Bassets hate them and will let you know in no uncertain terms.

3) Bassets have an odor. Every dog has it’s own unique odor. When they get wet, it is even more pronounced. Even the cute fluffy breeds that claim to have no odor have a cottony coat that absorbs all the odor around them.

4) Bassets need companionship. Bassets do not do well as yard dogs. They will become barkers if left alone outdoors for too long a time. In the house, if left alone too long, they will find ways you will not like, to amuse themselves. Bassets were bred as pack dogs to hunt and live together in groups. They need the company of other pets or humans. Do not buy a Basset if you plan on spending most of your days and nights gone. Pets are not toys you put on the shelf when you don’t have time for them.

5) Bassets need containment. A fenced yard is a must. Their keen sense of smell is second only to the Bloodhound. I happen to think Bassets are better because their noses are naturally closer to the ground. They do not know boundaries. The whole world is theirs for the sniffing. They are not runners.
They won’t bolt out an open door. They prefer staying near the kitchen. BUT if they pick up the scent of something, forget trying to distract them or calling them back. The ears won’t work. They turn stone deaf. Those short stumpy legs will take them farther than you can imagine. Unless you can catch up with them, you’ve lost a dog. They have no enemies, everyone’s a new friend, be it a wild animal or an automobile. They very seldom have any fears. Unconscientiously owners have lost their Bassets in ways it hurts me to talk about.

6) Last, but not least Bassets are bullheaded. If you’ve ever dealt with a teenager you’re one step ahead of the game. Most dogs want to please their owners. Bassets just want to please themselves. They’ll do what you want eventually. But if it’s the snap of a finger response you’re seeking, forget
the Basset. They have more important things to do. That is of course, unless the snapping fingers have a piece of sausage attached to them.

CHAPTER 2

Puppies are adorable, but do you have the time for proper training, care, and socializing? A puppy is no different than an infant. They sleep, eat, and eliminate. Not necessarily in that order. Don’t be disappointed if the pup is not housebroken in 2 weeks. Were you potty trained in 2 weeks? Did you get scolded, dragged to newspapers or get your nose rubbed in your diaper when you had an accident? If you can program yourself into thinking “infant” You’ll be OK. They eat 3-4 times a day. Will you be around for that? What goes in comes out instantly. If you’re starting a new family and feel a Basset puppy will finalize that perfect family picture, just remember you’ll have 2 babies to care
for. Both will be demanding of your time.

CH. OLDE FASHION AMERICAN BEAUTY, 12 WKS.

"ANGEL"

Never buy a Basset puppy from anyone selling before 8 weeks of age. Between 8 and 12 weeks is best. Before that time is when the fear emotions are peaking. This is a critical time, and the pup could be traumatized for life, exhibiting behavioral problems later in life. They need this period to be stable, in familiar surroundings with their littermates and mother. Socializing is very important for a well rounded, trusting, secure personality. This is what breeder’s refer to as good temperaments. Stay away from kennel/puppy mill type breeding. These dogs get little or no human contact and grow up to be social misfits. They are great candidates for dysfunctional pets. You don’t need a dog that’s bull headed, sheds, slops, smells and acts like a teenager with a nasty attitude to boot.

CHAPTER 3

If you make it through the first stage then you have the “terrible two’s”, (4-6 months) thing, At this age puppies do not need to sleep as much so they are constantly in motion. Places to go, things to see, lots to do all at the same time. Anything that their lips can wrap around is fair game. How do babies
investigate? They crawl on all fours putting everything, within reach, in their mouths. Get the picture? You can’t really find out about texture and flavor until it’s slobbered on and pulverized. This is also the stage where stubbornness starts emerging. Training can be started at this stage, if you have patience and fortitude.

OLDE FASHION WOULD YOU BELIEVE,CGC
"NORMAN"

No: is a four letter word (NOOO!) and is usually interpreted as, if you’re gonna’ do something, hide it and you won’t get blamed for it and hear that four letter word.

COME: You can get a treat if you really make your owner desperate.

STAY: Something you only have to do if your owner sticks you in one of those stupid cages or glues your feet to the floor.

OFF: You only have to do if there’s nothing good worth jumping up and begging for.

DOWN: Something humans say to get you in a horizontal position. It is usually for doing something you won’t like so roll over on your back and let loose of the bladder.

HEEL: This is where they put something around your neck and drag you around the yard. If you scream and holler and do summersaults they’ll usually give up quickly. If you look really pathetic you’ll get a treat too.

If you let Bassets get a way with anything just once (they have a steel trap for a memory) they will try to get away with it for the rest of their lives. No matter how determined you are they will be as determined. It’s cute holding that ten-pound puppy on the family heirloom sofa, but how will you feel about an eighty-pound dog on it, leaving no room for you? Personally I’ve gotten quite accustomed to watching television on the dog’s bed. How about the sweet puppy getting tidbits off the table, then at the formal Thanksgiving meal Aunt Josie has eighty pounds of Fred drooling in her lap.

Training is basically very simple. They’ll have you jumping through hoops in no time. The Basset is the most likely to get laughed at in the obedience ring. It becomes a test of who obeys first. There are thousands of Bassets that have done well and gone on to achieve high awards in obedience. But only with handlers that were able to get inside the Basset brain, yes there is one, and the stamina and patience of a saint.

BISS CH. SASQUATCH TALK ABOUT ME
"TOBY"

CH. OLDE FASHION AMERICAN BEAUTY
15 YRS OLD
"ANGEL"

If you are one of the fortunate people to have a Basset through its golden years, cherish every minute. Those soft gray faces will melt your heart. Just like that little puppy, you picked out so many years ago did. It will make you forget about the Log Cabin syrup that got punctured by little teeth and then drizzled over every piece of furniture as she gaily carried the bottle through the entire house. The piles and puddles you stepped in while sneaking a midnight snack. The chunk that was chewed out of the new leather chair purchased two weeks earlier, the 8-inch hole in the wallboard, and the cedar tree that was debarked and killed in 12 seconds. The thousands of dollars I, oops! I mean you blew trying to get a championship title when she stomped her feet around the ring trying to pound them through the cement floor in protest because she hated it. The judge telling you what a beautiful girl but “she really doesn’t like this”. So you give in, and let her have her fun at home. It’s only money. What about those dog magazines you’ve saved for years that one-day turned into confetti all over the house? The one-day she brought you a beautiful rose…………the whole bush! Always trying to be mother's little helper, emptying the trash cans, airing out the laundry (all over the yard). Rearranging the knick knacks, shaking the rugs (she didn’t know you’re suppose to do it outside). Taste testing the cookies or homemade bread cooling on the kitchen counter. Yes, I've been slipping and saying "she"........I owned her!

CH. OLDE FASHION FOREVER IN LOVE
14 YRS OLD
"KENNI"

As you look at the warm heart resting as close to yours as possible. With muscles atrophying, joints not quite as nimble as they once were, a haze on those once bright brown eyes, cherish the moments. They sleep through the doorbell and the entire ruckus around them. You look out the patio window and you visualize this young pup flying through the air all four feet flat out, in hot pursuit of a bunny. It seems like only yesterday. Now it is hard for them to get up and walk across the room.

Please have patience and muster up all the heart you can. It goes by all too fast.

If you decide “To Be” You will have a longtime companion. The kind of unselfish, forgiving genuine love seldom found in humans. Someone who will love you,
NO MATTER WHAT!

Buyer's Choice

by: Jane Baetz

Working as heavily as I did with the rescue program I not only met many different people, but many different so-called Bassets. When people would come to my house to see a rescued Basset one question always asked was “is this a purebred registered Basset?” My answer had to be “yes” it’s a purebred. Usually the next comment is “but this rescue Basset doesn’t look anything like your other Bassets”. At this point I'd explain the terms “Puppy Mill”, “Back-Yard Breeder” and “Reputable Responsible Breeder”.

I explained that registration of a purebred dog with AKC has no guarantees. There is no quality control. Any 2 dogs that are registered can be bred, and the offspring can be registered. If the dog’s quality is not good, than neither will the off spring be good. If the proper paperwork and fees are forwarded to AKC the dogs can be registered. So the breed’s fate depends solely on the breeder and their credibility.

The biggest problem is the “Puppy Mill”. They are arguably the only source of puppies for the retail pet stores. And it can be safely assumed that “Pet Store” sales account for the large portion of the pet registration in the US.

 

 

Obviously, the results of breeding programs like this, are going to have the potential for massive health and genetic problems. The breeders aren’t dog lovers, or even fanciers; they are abusive, uncaring people in it for the money, plain and simple. BUT they can produce AKC papers so the dogs must be OK….Right?

The lucky live puppies move on to the “Pet Store”. Some well-meaning but unknowing person sees the little pup (usually tiny due to being underweight or sickly) and their heart goes out to it. They want to rescue it from that little cage it’s in, and they pay as much or more as they would have from a reputable breeder. The store has a big overhead to support, after all. Ask someone why he or she bought from a store and the most common answer is they were looking for a particular breed and the store takes charge cards.

Puppies don’t belong in Pet Stores. The likelihood is that they will be unsupervised for 12 hours or more every day. An awfully long time before finding one took ill. They have to live in tiny cages, they are only brought out when someone wants to see them. They are handled by every Tom Dick and Harry complete with every germ they carry on them....Oh yes! and there 6, out of control unsupervised, little darlings. The pups are usually harder to house break because they are left to live in their messes, in their little cubicals.

Don’t fall for the fallacy that puppy mills are only down south, I live in a state about as far north as you can get, and there are operations I could hit with a rock from my house. Complaints have been made to the authorities, but as long as the minimum health standards, that exist now, are met, there is little they can do except inspect and warn. And ironically, the standards are usually to protect the human element, not the dog.

Then there is the “Back-Yard Breeder” They are just as dangerous to the breed and the buyer, but at least they aren't doing it intentionally.

Head, front structure and ears all wrong
Can only imagine the hereditary issues going on.

They bought an “AKC” dog (probably from a pet store or another Back-yard breeder) and little Cleo is their pride and joy. She is a great pet. She’s got the longest legs you ever saw on a Basset, and her ears don’t reach to, let alone past the end of her nose. And look, she’s got that great long feathering on the back of her legs and tail. The person that sold her said that’s what they’re breeding for nowadays, it’s rare and the pups having this characteristic would probably be worth more money, and if they have blue eyes......a double bonus! "BUYER BEWARE"

Cleo's owners heard it’s better to breed a dog at least once before you get her spayed, only they call it spaded!!!!. Besides it’s a great way to teach the kids about the beauty of birth and the responsibilities of caring for the pups. And these are the same kids who can’t remember to brush their teeth, or change their underwear. They never thought of taking the kids to the local humane society to see what happens when that responsibility is ignored, and the thousands of dogs euthanized because the kid’s just lost interest, and the parents don't have time.

BAD!!!

Back to Cleo. Her owner’s take her to the nearest AKC registered male Basset that they can find lets call him Clarence. Cleo’s owners might ask for Clarence’s pedigree, the owner shows them the AKC papers and tells them that’s all they need. Clarence’s owner explains that the bald, scratched, bloody spot on him usually go away after summer ends, and even if his lower jaw sticks out a little, Cleo’s upper jaw sticks out, so the pups bites will probably even out in the genes...Makes sense to me.!!!!!! Those smelly ears are just from the summer, nothing to worry about, and the gunky crusty eyes? That's nothing, part of being a Basset. They cut a deal and the breeding is done. Nature runs its course, and in 8 weeks we have another bunch of terrific examples of the breed to find homes for.

They run a classified ad in the paper (another great place to find pure bred dogs) and a buyer shows up. Usually the ad is written "Bassett Hounds For Sale", because the sellers haven't even learned how to spell the breed name, let alone find out any important information about them. They once bought one of those little booklets about Bassets' and it told them all they needed to know about the breed. “How about the pedigree?” the buyer asks. “Here’s the AKC registration,” they say, and everyone’s happy. “And look this one has the great crooked legs, with the feet shooting off to the sides, with the feathery fur on the legs and tail like a setter! This is really a rare trait, so the sale is made.

The sale is made and the cycle goes on. The pedigree is rarely checked, so successive breeding could easily be to close relatives, since they’ll be in the same area. That’ll help continue those rare traits.

The Backyard breeder doesn’t do any of this intentionally. He is just uneducated and listening to the wrong people and some old wives tales that have been passed on thru generations.

The Reputable Breeder only breeds when it will benefit the breed. They study a 5-generation pedigree; know the ancestry of almost every dog in their pedigree. They know where faults lie and what dogs should and shouldn’t be bred. Who is producing the least amount of faults. They breed only the dogs that are worthy of passing on their genes. They don’t just take two dogs and pray that they will compliment each other. A lot of diligence goes into each and every breeding. Long studies and much experience lead the reputable breeder to combinations that produce beautiful dogs that look like the breed standard, have the temperament the breed is known to have and have few if any hereditary problems.

HOW A PUPPY SHOULD LOOK

The reputable breeder works and plans and strives for perfection, knowing that perfection isn’t really possible. But they come as close as they can, and those that aren’t close enough to meet their standards are sold, as pets, but they are sold on limited registrations or with no registrations. They’re sold to live a long, happy life as a friend and companion after being neutered to insure that the unwanted imperfections aren’t passed along.

The reputable breeder knows how disruptive a litter will be, and only has a litter they know they will be able to care for. The hours, days and weeks involved lead into a life long devotion to their dogs. Some reputable breeders have only a few litters in their career. This doesn’t mean they aren’t as devoted to the breed, because those few litters are as well planned and cared for as the litters produced by those who do make it a career.

A reputable breeder doesn’t overload themselves with litters so they all suffer: They ALL get the same high degree of care and loving. They check certifications about hereditary problems. They assure the sire and dam are in good health before breeding, they insure against over breeding and do everything possible to have the most physically sound litters possible.

After Whelping the reputable breeder provides the best quality foods, all the recommended supplements and vaccines. They spend more time with the vet than with their human doctor. They do all this to guarantee that they have done the very best for these other members of their family.

And when it’s time to part with one of them…Well, I’ve seen relatives marry off a child with less care in the selection of the spouse than in the selection of a home for their puppies. Pups are not sold before 8 weeks of age and most times later than that. Many eliments are taken into concideration before the decission, to sell, is made.

The reputable breeder is there for the buyers throughout the life of their dog, through the good and the bad times. Through sickness and through health, till death they do part. Any questions one would have about their dog the breeder is always there to help. Their knowledge can be a Godsend.

It may be hard to find a reputable breeder on the weekends. They are usually out at dog shows proving that the dogs are exactly what they bred them to be; as near to a perfect specimen that they could breed.

The first thing a reputable breeder will tell you is that an AKC registration paper is NOT all that you need. It is NOT a pedigree and is NOT any guarantee of what the puppy may be.

So! Who would you rather buy from?

If you can not buy/afford a puppy or dog from a reputable breeder, than concider this. There are hundreds of wonderful dogs that society has thrown aside that need someone to help and care for them. They are called rescue dogs, and they need your help. Give one of them a home. They will be more grateful than you will ever know. Every state has a rescue organization. Check them out. In Wisconsin we have "BASSET BUDDIES"

If you need help contacting a rescue organization, or a reputable breeder just email me and I will help you find what you are looking for.

No part or parts of this article can be reproduced or copied without written consent of the author.

Ear Cleaner

INGREDIENTS:

16 Oz. 70% Isopropyl Alcohol
*4 Tablespoons Boric Acid Powder
*16 Drops Gentian Violet Solution 1%
Mix together in alcohol bottle and shake well.
You will also need to shake solution every time you use it to disperse
the Boric Acid Powder. TRANSFER TO SQUIRT BOTTLE.

THIS RECIPE HAS PROVEN EFFECTIVE IN THE MOST CHRONIC CASES

Progesterone Testing

LH - (LUTEINIZING HORMONE)
Hypophyseal LH is the biological trigger for the cascade of events that culminate in
ovulation. Following a variable period (1 to 21 days) of estrogen level elevation, the LH
surge signals the transition from proestrus to estrus. LH stimulates follicular granulosa
cells to secrete progesterone. The LH surge is the key timing event dictating days of
peak fertility. Ovulation begins 2 days post-LH surge and continues for another day or
so. Ova mature and are capable of fertilization 2 days later. Mature ova live another 1-3
days. Optimal breeding times are day 4, 5, and 6 post-LH surge.

Pinpointing the day of the LH surge is cumbersome. The LH surge is short-lived,
typically lasting only 12 to 24 hours. Therefore, daily blood testing is required. LH is a
species specific hormone and assays are not currently available from commercial
laboratories in the US. A qualitative (test kit) assay is available for in-hospital use, but it
has a short shelf life (3 months maximum). LH assays are most often used in the timing
for breedings with frozen semen.

PROGESTERONE
Progesterone's initial rise occurs concomitantly with the LH surge. At that time, baseline
progesterone levels (<1.5ng/ml) rise to 1.5-2.0 ng/ml. After the initial rise, progesterone
continues to rise and may reach levels of 10-15 ng/ml by the end of the fertile period.
Ovulation occurs when progesterone levels are between 4 and 10 ng/ml. Plan breedings
4 to 6 days after the initial rise, and 2 to 4 days after the onset of ovulation. Since
baseline and initial rise levels can vary from individual to individual, it is important to
start testing early enough to define the baseline progesterone level.

The gold standard for determining progesterone levels is quantitative measurement by
radioimmunoassay. Results are reported in ng/ml. Progesterone, like all steroid
hormones, is not species-specific and can be measured commercially by human and
veterinary laboratories alike.

Several semiquantitative ELISA progesterone kits are available, Status-Pro [Synbiotics],
Target [Biometallics], and PreMate [Camelot Farms], for example. Results are
intrepreted from a color change in the test well or membrane. Hemolyzed blood samples
will falsely lower the result. If test kit components are not warmed to room temperature,
then a falsely high result will be interpreted. The general consensus is that test kits are
usually adequate for most natural breedings, but are not accurate enough when planning a
fresh chilled or frozen breeding.

Recommendations for progesterone testing include starting to test around day 5 or 6 from
onset of sign of proestrus, followed by testing every other day until ovulation has been
confirmed. However, some females have very short seasons and require testing at the
first sign of proestrus. Others may not ovulate until after 21 or more days. When in
doubt, start testing early.

EVALUATION OF EXTERNAM GENETALIA
During proestrus, the vulva is swollen and a sersanguinous vulvar diacharge (of uterine
origin) is present. As proestrus transitions to estrus, vulvar edema diminishes and the
vulvar discharge becomes straw colored. Note however, that some normal bitches may
have a hemorrhagic discharge that persists throughout estrus. With the onset of diestrus,
vulvar edema subsides completely.

Excerpts taken from article written by:
Jane Barber DVM, MS, DACT

For the complete article "It's All In The Timing" go to:

http://www.hilltopanimalhospital.com/chilled%20vs%20frozen.htm

The aim is to identify when the progesterone level reaches 2.5 ng/ml so the mating schedule can be set up, or the veterinarian and owner of the male dog can be notified that they should be prepared to collect and ship a semen sample. Depending upon the type of semen used, optimal times for natural or artificial insemination are:

1. Natural breeding should occur 3 days after the 2.5 ng/ml mark. Sperm in fresh semen survive 5-7 days after insemination.

2. Artificial insemination using fresh chilled semen should be used for a 1-time breeding. Insemination should take place 4 days after the progesterone reaches the 2.5 ng/ml mark or 48 hours (2 days) after the 5 ng/ml mark.

3. Sperm in chilled semen survive 48-72 hours after insemination. With artificial insemination, the semen should be deposited into the cervix to increase the chance of it being drawn into the uterus.

4. Artificial insemination using frozen semen should be performed 5 days following the 2.5 ng/ml mark or 72 hours (3 days) after the 5 ng/ml mark. Sperm in frozen semen survives less than 24 hours after insemination. Frozen semen is ideally deposited directly into the uterus through surgery to increase the chance of pregnancy.

FERTILIZATION AND IMPLANTATION

The sperm require a period of approximately 7 hours after ejaculation before they are capable of fertilizing an egg. This period is referred to as the "capacitation time." The egg also needs time to mature after it is ovulated, generally 48 hours from ovulation until it can be fertilized. Fertilization occurs in the oviduct (Fallopian tubes) regardless of the method of insemination. The fertilized egg then travels into the uterus but does not implant until 17-18 days after ovulation. If there are problems with the lining of the uterus, the egg may not implant or the placenta may not grow or be maintained. A normal placenta grows into the lining of the uterus. If implantation does not occur or the placenta does not grow normally, the fetuses are resorbed.

After ovulation, progesterone concentrations continue to increase for 2-3 weeks, finally reaching 10-80 ng/ml. This level is necessary to maintain a pregnancy. In the dog, the progesterone level will remain at this level for about 60 days whether or not the dog is bred, and whether or not she is pregnant.

About 48 hours before whelping, the progesterone level drops to the 2 ng/ml range and within about 24 hours of whelping, the level drops to the 1 ng/ml range. This can help determine the proper timing of a c-section, especially if the progesterone level or LH level were not used to determine the ovulation date. By correctly determining the whelping time, it can prevent puppies from being taken by c-section too early and thereby decreasing their chance of survival.

1. NATURAL BREEDING: The 2 dogs are brought together and mated naturally.

2. REGULAR AI; Vaginal insemination involves inserting a rod loaded with semen into the bitches vagina and advancing it to the cervix opening. Called the os, the cervical opening is the ideal place to deposit semen. Once the rod is in place, the semen is deposited and the rod is withdrawn.

3. LAPAROSCOPIC INSEMINATION
A less invasive and potentially faster surgical procedure, is a new technique becoming more prevalent. In laparoscopy, a small telescope inserted into the bitch's abdomen is used to locate and identify the uterus for semen injection.

4. SURGICAL IMPLANT WITH FRESH, FROZEN OR CHILLED SEMEN
Surgical insemination allows for direct insemination of the semen into the uterus. Similar to the technique used to spay a bitch. it involves injecting semen into the exposed uterus through a needle or catheter. Surgical conception rates using frozen semen closely match those of natural mating, Surgical insemination provides an opportunity to examine the bitches suspected of having uterine or ovarian diseases. In addition, giant and toy breeds, with historically poor conception rates, can benefit from surgical insemination. The technique also benefits males with low sperm-cell counts who have difficulty impregnating bitches in natural breeding.

TWO GREAT REPRODUCTION COMPANIES

Infertility is the inability to conceive or to carry a pregnancy to term. Infertility in bitches includes abnormalities of the heat cycle (estrus), failure of breeding (copulation), failure of becoming pregnant (conception), and pregnancy loss.

Errors in breeding management, anovulatory cycles and ovarian/uterine problems are frequently encountered as a cause of infertility in bitches of all ages, while poor semen quality is often a feature of adult to older male dogs. The most common factors influencing conception and the establishment of a normal canine pregnancy are listed below

Reproductive cycle disorders--Prolonged lack of heat or anestrus is sometimes observed especially in older bitches. Frequent cycling (3-4 heats/year) is also observed in bitches of all ages, and has been associated with infertility, although the mechanism involved is not yet clear. Anovulatory cycles occur fairly frequently (although there are no reported figures on their incidence) both at puberty as well as in the adult bitch. When a bitch experiences an anovulatory cycle, her reproductive behavior is generally absolutely normal, i.e., she attracts male dogs, has a normal vulvar discharge and accepts breeding. Failure to ovulate can only be diagnosed by finding a low serum progesterone concentration after breeding.

Uterine disease--Uterine pathology is a common cause of failure to conceive both in bitches and queens. The bitch experiences 2 estrous cycles/year, with spontaneous ovulation, development of corpus luteum and progesterone secretion for about 2 months. The progesterone stimulation on the uterine lining (the endometrium) causes accumulation of secretion of endometrial glands with formation of cystic structures (cystic endometrial hyperplasia = CEH). Such cystic structures are very important for feeding the embryos, and if the female is not pregnant they normally regress towards the end the luteal phase (also called progestational phase or diestrus), leaving the endometrium free to regenerate and be ready for the next chance for a pregnancy. If the female is rarely if ever mated, these cystic structures will eventually persist, thereby making large sections of the endometrium unsuitable for the establishment of pregnancy. Uterine disease is not believed to be a problem in breeding establishments where bitches are bred and conceive on a regular basis, as pregnancy may have a protective effect on the endometrium. Unlike breeding bitches, the average intact bitch kept as a pet may experience problems in becoming pregnant if bred only as an adult dog, due to the deterioration of her uterine lining.

There have been reports of instances of suspected luteal failure, luteal insufficiency, or "hypoluteoidism" in which peripheral concentrations of progesterone were observed to be exceptionally low in bitches which were confirmed to have resorbed or aborted their litter. The extent to which the low progesterone was a cause versus a consequence of pregnancy failure has not been well established. Nevertheless, protocols have been suggested for progesterone supplementation in pregnant bitches in which progesterone fall below 5 ng/ml before day 55, or declines more rapidly than expected in mid-gestation. The application of such progesterone replacement in bitches which previously failed to become pregnant or which were documented to have resorbed litters has involved successfully pregnancies--but whether the "successes" have been the result of treatment, better breeding management, or unknown factors is not known. Some protocols for progesterone supplementation have involved administration of progesterone in amounts too low or too infrequent to result in a meaningful effect of circulating progesterone concentrations, and there have been no studies to determine the effects of specific supplementation protocols on circulating progesterone concentrations. Progesterone supplementation protocols have included the following: (1) progesterone in oil, i.m., 2 mg/kg, every 72 h. (2) altrenogest, daily, p.o., 0.088 mg/kg (0.2 cc/10 lb, using Regu-Mate©, Hoechst-Roussel). Medroxyprogesterone, megestrol and some other synthetics can cause masculinization of female fetuses. Recently, human products of micronized natural progesterone in capsules have been used, being given orally 1-2 times per day at doses of 5-10 mg/kg (i.e., 100 mg capsules in 10-20 kg dogs) and the efficacy monitored by progesterone assays. This has been successful in some clinics although it relies on owner compliance. Natural progesterone requires frequent administration but has he advantage that withdrawal can be done rapidly. Whether the successful pregnancies obtained in P-supplemented bitches have been incidental or the result of treatment is not known, and controlled study is lacking.

Any use of progesterone supplementation must be done with a plan to discontinue therapy in a manner that will allow for progesterone to decline below 2 ng/ml shortly before expected "term" and thus permit or promote normal whelping. Excessive exogenous progesterone or other progestin can compromise normal parturition and can result in dead puppies that must be recovered by C-section. Oral progestin therapy should be discontinued 2 days prior to the estimated day of parturition. Serial injections of synthetic preparations should be discontinued early enough for the progestin to decline to non-effect concentrations by the expected day of parturition.

Poor semen quality--Dogs ejaculate 500-2000 million spermatozoa diluted in 2-50 cc of seminal plasma. Quantity of spermatozoa as well as of seminal plasma varies according to body weight and testicular size, with Yorkshire terriers and Great Danes producing an average of 2-3 and 20-30 cc of ejaculate, respectively. Semen quality depends on quantity of spermatozoa present, their motility and morphology.

Failure to achieve a normal mating--Young stud dogs at their first attempts at breeding may sometime apparently look not capable of mounting properly, e.g., they may approach the female from her flank or from her head, or may spend a considerable amount of time pelvic thrusting without achieving an intromission. Although this should be considered part of the normal process of learning reproductive behaviour in young animals, it is considered abnormal when displayed by adult male dogs.

Infection of the reproductive tract--Infectious diseases of the canine reproductive tract which can be responsible for infertility include bacterial infection such as brucellosis due to Brucella canis (rarely Brucella abortus or suis), infection due to salmonella species, streptococci and E. coli; viral diseases such as herpes virus, distemper, parvovirus 1 and 2, and to the parasites Toxoplasma gondii and Neospora caninum. Incidence may vary depending on the country and the area/s within each country. Brucella canis and herpes virus are highly contagious. Other bacterial infections (salmonella, streptococcus, E. coli) and toxoplasmosis are less contagious and tend to be a feature of the individual bitch. Not much is known about the role of Neospora caninum in canine abortion. Herpes virus has always been known as a cause of abortion.

Noninfectious causes of embryonic-fetal death--Endocrine diseases such as inadequate production of progesterone or thyroid hormones during pregnancy may cause abortion. Also, diabetes, adrenal insufficiency and other endocrine diseases may affect foetal viability. The improper use of drugs may also have an adverse effect on pregnancy. Chromosomal abnormalities are widely described as a cause of embryonic/fetal death in the dog.

Ovarian disease--Ovarian disease (ovarian cysts or ovarian tumors) is a rare cause of infertility in bitches due to the fact that incidence of ovarian cysts or tumors is higher is adult to older bitches (the older the bitch the less likely she is to be used for reproduction). The most common presenting complaint of ovarian cyst or tumor is prolonged heat due to a high estrogen production. Ovarian cysts and tumors have occasionally been reported in bitches as young as 2-3 years of age.

PREGNANCY TESTING

 Serologic testing for pregnancy in bitches is complicated because of female dogs' normal endocrine physiology. Bitches do not produce a pregnancy-specific hormone similar to human chorionic gonadotropin, the compound assayed in early pregnancy tests for women. In addition, progesterone is not a useful indicator of pregnancy because all bitches secrete progesterone for two months after heat, regardless of whether they were bred or not.

The Cost of a Litter

THE COST OF A LITTER

There have been questions over the years about why my puppies cost more than "the ones in the paper." When you buy from a responsible reputable breeder, this is what is involved.

The average pet owner, has no idea just how much time and expense a reputable breeder spends per litter.   The following is an idea of the expenses involved in planning, breeding, and caring for a litter until they go to new homes, from a breeder such as I.

Obviously the first step for a reputable responsible breeder is to have a good quality bitch.   Most good quality bitches do not come cheap!  By good quality, I mean that the bitch is from a known heritage (registered and pedigreed with the majority of the pedigree being champions and/or performance-titled and health-tested ancestors), has no disqualifying faults, is temperamentally stable and is healthy.  This bitch should be able to finish the requirements of a championship herself, should be able to pass a Temperament Test, and must be health tested. To learn about their conformational strengths and weaknesses, their temperaments, their longevity and causes of death and their overall health, you need a breeder that can give you years of experience about the ancestry of your dog..

Just for informational purposes, a championship could cost anywhere from $500 (owner handled in only 4 or 5 shows) to, well over thousands of dollars!  It can take even a good quality bitch a while to finish a conformation championship title in tough competition and  in certain areas, you may need a professional handler, and cost could rise  over $5000 or more.  A basic obedience title (Companion Dog) would probably include the cost of obedience classes, plus the cost of entries.  A CD could be earned in as little as 3 shows or as much as 3 or 4 years of showing.  Agility can cost thousands depending on how far you want to take your titles, as there are many to be gotten, too numerous to mention. . The same goes for field and tracking titles. Since most of these competitions are never in your back yard you must consider the price of gas these days. Traveling and gear are the biggest expense for most titles.

The point here is that it costs money to title dogs.  There are people that don't feel that conformation showing is important and they feel they don't care if the parents of their puppy were shown.  The fact of the matter is that conformation shows are supposed to be about proving that the dog conforms to the standard for the breed, that the dog is built properly to be able to do the job it was originally intended to do.  For some reason, many people don't seem to see the connection between shows and their desire for a nice pet.  A dog that is built properly with the proper angles and the prescribed build ideally should have a better chance at good health.  Good health of the joints and bones, proper room for the organs, the capability to be able to jump and run, paws and legs and joints that can absorb shock properly, etc.  Good health starts with good conformation! Not to mention that if no one bothered with how the Basset Hound looked or any other breed for that matter, it wouldn't be long before we would no longer recognize the breeds we have come to expect.

Testing temperaments also translates to the pet owner.  I think that everyone wants a stable pet that they can count on not to harm their family and friends.  No one wants a dog, that is afraid of its own shadow, spooked by every moving thing or noise and worse biting when felt threatened. Maybe the pet owner is interested in having a dog they can do performance sports with. Titles on the parents may indicate a hereditary link of these kinds of traits.   Some people may be interested in obedience, field, tracking, agility, or Rally, if the parents and ancestors have these titles, it may be an indication that the puppies will have that aptitude.  Regardless of the interest of the average pet owner, titles on the parents may be indicative of the kind of temperament you can expect in your pet puppy.

Health testing is very important.  In our breed eye screening for inherited glaucoma disease is essential. Blood panels are done on the dogs.  Thrombopathy and Von Willebrand's Disease are a serious bleeding disorder. Bitches should also have a thorough vet check prior to breeding and a brucellosis test is needed for sires and dams. A culture/sensitivity vaginal test is performed before breeding. Several progesterone tests are done to determine the optimal breeding time, fecal testing.  As you can see, it is very easy to spend $$$$$ on health testing prior to breeding.

The responsible breeder spends lots of time and money researching  dogs to complement their breeding program.  The breeder is attending shows ($) or simply traveling to see these dogs, is staying current with the breed magazines ($), is attending seminars ($), is maintaining memberships in breed clubs to keep abreast of important breed news ($), is calling other breeders nationwide in the pursuit of more information ($), is purchasing books on canine genetics and breed specific books ($), they are donating time and money to health research and rescue efforts ($).   All of these things also go into the making of a great puppy.

Finding a good stud dog is another issue. They will have to pay a stud fee ranging anywhere from $800 to $2500. Hopefully this stud will have the same degree of health testing completed, will also be a conformation champion and   from healthy, beautiful, long-lived ancestors.  This stud dog will probably not be in the breeder's area and flights may be necessary to get the bitch to the stud dog and back.  This will likely add another $600 minimum to the costs.  Not to mention that the breeder may lose a couple of days of work getting the bitch to the airport and picking her up again.   Flights may not be necessary depending on the distance involved but it's likely that at the very least, a long drive (gas $) will be necessary, and a hotel bill for about 5 days while staying near the stud dog.  If Semen is being shipped, either frozen or chilled , some breeders prefer this new way of breeding to save wear and tear on shipping the bitch, you will need the aide of a reproductive specialists doing procedures like transcervical implants or artificial insemination.
 
The breeder is probably going to find it necessary to do a bit of advertising ($) to let people know there are puppies expected.  The national breed or all-breed magazines are expensive to advertise in.  Other ways is through a web site that is very costly to set up and run.

The breeder is also going to need to build (or purchase) a whelping box.  While this box may last them for many years, it will cost some upkeep over time in re-painting and refurbishing as needed.  The breeder will be amassing towels, blankets, carpet and newspapers for the whelping box.

Other supplies that may need to be purchased include:  garbage bags (at least hundreds),  puppy dishes, puppy toys, syringes, nursing kits and formula. Lots of disinfectant and bleach, and Clorox wipes, mops, sponges, heat lamps, heating pads, hot water bottles, ex-pen's, a puppy scale, puppy food, worming medication,  laundry detergent, paper towels (lots and lots!), potty pads, blankets etc. While some of these supplies will be used over and over again, some will need to be purchased fresh for each litter.  Either way, there are supply costs.

While waiting the delivery of the pups, the breeder is getting their contracts and puppy kits in order.  Puppy kits for the new owners may include binders of info and pictures, copies of health info, food samples, a toy, etc.  The breeder is making and returning long distance phone calls ($) to the potential owners keeping them up to date on what is happening.  They are spending their spare time meeting with and screening potential owners to find the best homes for their puppies. Hours with prospective buyers coming to see the pups. Hours on the Internet doing pictures, and answering questions from potential buyers. Trying to keep the house and family in order, Not only money but time patience and perseverance are needed here.

The bitch requires extra food in the last half of her pregnancy.  Her food requirement pretty much doubles in the end stages of pregnancy.  Many breeders also switch the bitch to a puppy formula for the extra nourishment.  Extra food means extra dollars.  Puppy food often costs more than adult formulations.  Once the puppies arrive, her food requirements will possibly triple whilst nursing her litter.

The actual delivery of puppies may go relatively smoothly with little or no expense or it literally could be a nightmare of emergency trips to the vet with a possible costly
c-section needed in the middle of a Sunday night.  Either way, the breeder must be prepared.  They must always remember that the delivery of the puppies might possibly cost $2000 or more.  The miracle of birth is not always an easy or inexpensive one.  Puppies get stuck, uterine inertia sets in, exhaustion happens, bitches lose strength, puppies come twisted, or 2 at a time.  Many bitches need Oxytocin administered to get the delivery going, some need x-rays or ultrasounds,  some bitches die.  Many will require antibiotics possibly after intervention during whelping. At the very least, many breeders do take their bitch to the vet for a check-up directly after whelping.  You can't cut corners when it comes to the care of your bitch.

After all the money that the breeder has already paid out to get to this point, they may only have 1 or 2 puppies or worse end up with all dead puppies, and or no puppies and pyometra.  Now you have hardly anything to help cover expenses.  On the other hand lots of puppies will mean more expenses.

Regardless of how many puppies there are, there are more expenses ahead. A large litter may require supplemental feeding. The time involved is substantial on the breeder's part.  The breeder will probably suffer more lost time from work at this point or have to use up vacation hours.

The real cost to the breeder, though, often at this time is in sleep deprivation!  Many breeders find it necessary to camp out 24/7 to keep an eye on puppies, sleeping next to the whelping box for the first couple of weeks.  From personal experience, it is exhausting! Waking every time you hear a squeak, making sure mom doesn't lay on babies.  Oh yes, this is a big problem with Bassets.

Hopefully the bitch is not suffering from any problems such as mastitis, eclampsia or endometritis, requiring veterinary care and extra attention from the breeder for both the bitch and the puppies.  Again, more costly possibilities!

Within a couple of weeks of birth, the breeder will need to register the litter with the AKC.

The breeder will usually start worming pups within a couple of weeks of birth.
The puppies will be ready to be weaned around 3 weeks of age or so, which means they will soon start eating the breeder out of house and home!  And the clean-up is extensive for weeks.

Hopefully all is going well with the puppies and they are developing normally and need no vet care or medication at this time.  But it's always a possibility.

The puppies are going to require their first shots at 6 or 8 weeks and a vet check on each puppy $$$.

Pet puppies may be going to new homes by 8 or 9 weeks .  Hopefully there are responsible homes lined up for each puppy.  But often times there is not, so puppy care, feeding and expense goes on for a couple or a few puppies.  More advertising ($) may be in order.  The next set of shots ($) is due at 10 to 12 weeks also.  Phone calls and emails are being exchanged as the new owners are offered help and advice through out the dogs life.

Then there are the hopefuls that, with Bassets, have to hang around for at least 4 months before the quality for the show ring can be determined.  And even at that age you are taking a chance. So as the puppies get older the expenses keep mounting. The time and effort into training them.  If for conformation they have to be socialized and trained to walk on a lead and stack in a show pose……and hold still! All this takes time and patience from the breeder.

In my conversations with people that are interested in breeding, I advise that at the very least they are likely going to need approximately $5,000 set aside to cover expenses, both expected and unexpected.  Depending on circumstance, that may be low or it may be high but in my experience it is average.  That $5,000 figure does not include costs associated with achieving titles.

And then there is the emotional expense of taking that puppy to the limits in training and socializing the love and hopefulness for that big new winner, nurturing and caring for months only to find out as it reaches maturity it is not all you had hoped for, and undesirable traits emerge.  There is the emotional cost that you can't put a price on as you hand you beloved show prospect over to a pet home after months of pain staking care,  to make room for the next hopeful.  This life is a roller coaster, and only for the strong at heart.

Breeders that are planning, producing and raising litters properly with due care and diligence are not likely to be making any profit doing so.  Even when the average pet prices are reaching in the neighborhood of $900 to $1500 these days.

Sure, you can pay prices like these and not receive a puppy that has had all of the care and advantages listed above. Do your homework!! The important thing is to ensure that anyone you decide to purchase from IS doing these things.  These kinds of prices should buy the advantages above and should also give you a lasting relationship with the breeder.  The price you pay should provide you with not only a history of your puppy but a future as well.  It should provide you with a lifetime of advice and help with your puppy.

A true hobby breeder that cares about the breed and does not cut corners is not breeding for money.

In conclusion, if none of this is important to you than go ahead and buy that “cheap” pet from the back yard breeder or puppy mill .  Your initial expense will be low but it is going to cost you in the end.